Modernist Jewelry Design, 1940s-1980s.

Niels Erik From Danish Modern Necktie, c. 1960s / Sterling Silver

[ via Mascara Jones ]
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A sidestep tribute to Avant-Garde Modernism which has permeated all aspects of design including the wearable art movement of the mid-20th century and beyond. Studio art jewelry holds a special place of regard for me personally as Mr. AQ-V (J Collier) is a terrifically talented art jeweler. Although admittedly I am a smidge biased. My alter-ego talks studio metal speak like a pro including patinas and Japanese metal alloys in addition to the expected swooning over sleek lines and forms.

I continue to be enamored by vintage Modernist jewelry design, circa 1950s-1960s in particular, and have featured a few favorites above and below. Many of these pieces are available for purchase. Just follow the ‘via’ link included below each work for further information and to see many more works for sale in their respective shops.

For those interested in learning more about mid-century modern jewelry, especially if you have a penchant to begin collecting these works, I highly recommend a few books for your library including MODERNIST JEWELRY, 1930–1960: The Wearable Art Movement and FORM & FUNCTION American Modernist Jewelry, 1940–1970, both publications by Marbeth Schon. (Learn more on her website.) Plus MESSENGERS OF MODERNISM: American Studio Jewelry 1940–1960 by Toni Greenbaum and Martin Eidelberg.

Beginning with the streamlining of Art Moderne, modernist jewelers mirrored the consciousness of their age. They were free thinkers and artists who broke away from the mainstream of jewelry design and looked to the fine arts for inspiration; they were Surrealists, Cubists, and Abstract Expressionists functioning as sculptors in small scale, painters in enamels and architects in miniature. The modernist metalsmiths of the 1930s through 1960s laid the groundwork for the enormous expansion of metalsmithing in the 1970s and 1980s. These creative jewelers produced personal designs as they absorbed the changes happening in the world around them. The artists’ stories and jewelry are arranged chronologically and linked to four pivotal exhibitions held at the Museum of Modern Art, New York City, in 1946; the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis, in 1948 and 1955; and an exhibition on paper in 1959…

–Editorial Review of Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960: The Wearable Art Movement by M. Schon

After the scroll, check out my 2009 post highlighting the work of one of my all time favorite Modernist jewelers, Art Smith. Don’t miss his exquisite copper cuff featured on down below.

Ed Wiener Double Pendant Necklace, c. 1950s / Sterling Silver

[ via M. Schon ]

Art Smith Twisted Cuff, c. 1940s-50s / Copper

[ via M. Schon ]

Esther Lewittes Abstract Modernist Brooch, c. 1950s / Sterling Silver

[ via Mascara Jones ]

Earl Pardon Brooch Pin, c. 1980s
Enamel, 14k Gold, Sterling Silver, Shell, Diamond, Semi-Precious Stones

[ via M. Schon ]

Paul Lobel Handmade Cuff, c. 1950s / Sterling Silver

[ via M. Schon ]

Unsigned Handmade Forged Brooch Pin, c. 1960s / Sterling Silver

[ via Mascara Jones ]

Frank Miraglia Cuff, c. 1950s / Sterling Silver

[ via M. Schon ]
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More Modernist jewelry on AQ-V:

Modernist Art Smith

Most people within and surrounding the design community are keenly aware of the modernist movement of the previous century. If I were to take a poll and query these people about who and what represents modernism to them I bet I would hear iconic names like Eames, Saarinen and Neutra plus a host of modern furniture and architectural designs associated with them. But modernism is much broader than this. Artisans who began the wearable art movement in the 1940′s certainly belong in this list, artisans like Art Smith…